|The intrepid tourist at Anzac Cove|
Getting to GallipoliSometimes taking pictures from a moving bus works. I won't show you the ones that didn't.
|landscape - somewhere in Turkey|
|village - Somewhere in Turkey|
|First view of Eceabat|
|Memorial and cemetery at Anzac Cove|
You have to be thereAfter a not particularly inspiring lunch at the not particularly inspiring Grand Hotel at Eceabat, we embussed again for Anzac Cove. Our guide was a total history tragic who'd done plenty of homework and had a folder full of historic photographs to compare with what we could see today.
Hasan, our guide.
At Chunuk Bair in front of the Turkish Infantry
Monument (and our bus)
Hasan suggested this mis-information was intended to encourage raw and inexperienced soldiers, but we can think of a much more likely explanation, can't we, kiddies?
|"Brighton Beach" at Gaba Tepe|
|Sphinx and Plugge's Plateau from North Beach|
MonumentsThese days the peninsula bristles with monuments and headstones rather than weaponry. The Turks have some particularly impressive ones, like this one depicting a Turkish soldier assisting a wounded Englishman.
Turkish monument at Ari Burnu
The lady in colourful robes is, in fact, a very Australian Event
Organiser from Sydney
|Lone Pine monument and cemetery|
Turkish monument with narrative of the battlefield at Chunuk Bair.
It consists of five of these monoliths arranged in a semicircle,
representing a hand turned upwards towards God.
BattlefieldsThe thing that really struck me was how small the area is. I have read about it, looked at the maps, and even written a small amount, but it's not until you get down on the ground that it strikes home just how futile and frustrating the whole exercise was. In their official history of the 12th Battalion my grandfather and Col Newton both expressed exasperation at being forced to withdraw from the peninsula with the job not done, but I suspect they were pretty glad to go. The whole operation was crammed into a few square kilometres and you seem to come across another cemetery or monument every few hundred metres.
|view from Lone Pine|
|Schrapnel Gully from Turkish machine gun position|
The row of pine trees in the distance marks the position of the Australian trenches at Lone Pine; Turkish trenches were to the left, close behind where the memorial is now (you can just make it out as a dot to the left of the pine trees). This gully was the only supply route from the depot at North Beach and despite plenty of protective sandbag walls Turkish snipers did make life rather difficult for the Australians.
The brown rectangle in the foreground is an ancient Turkish water tank, left over from the war.
These two photographs are of the view from The Nek towards the English position at Suvla Bay, near the big salt lake visible in the distance.
|reconstructed entrances to Turkish and Australian |
tunnels at The Nek
There is little more than the width of this road between the two tunnel entrances above; there probably weren't any tourists standing between them in 1915, though.
|Trenches at The Nek - as they are today|
|Monument to the Turkish people. |
It incorporates copies of at least two of the
monuments at Gallipoli
|Relief map of the Gallipoli peninsula; this is the Anzac Cove bit|
|Diorama of Turkish trenches|
I spent the night at the Grand Hotel, Eceabat. That's it at the end of the street.
“Grand” might have been a bit of a misnomer, but the view from the roof was splendid. And that's Anatolia across the water.
By the way, the Australian Government has a really good website for Battlefield Tourists:http://www.anzacsite.gov.au/
Oh yes - I mentioned legends.
There are several of these panels ranged around the display area above. They sound a bit jingoistic, but after all the Gallipoli campaign was even more important to the Turks than to us distant Australians. And they did win.
So we'd better go and have a look at Troy, hadn't we?